For a special anniversary in Lisbon, I'd send you to Zé da Mouraria in the Mouraria quarter, one of the oldest and most characterful parts of the city, well away from the Alfama tourist circuit.

It's a small, unpretentious place run by a family who have been feeding the neighbourhood for decades. The menu changes with what's good that day, but you'll usually find arroz de lingueirão (razor clam rice), slow-braised bacalhau, and whatever fish came in from the market that morning. The wine list is short and honest, ask for a recommendation and they'll give you one without upselling you.

Book ahead, it fills quickly and they won't hold a table. Ask for the room at the back if you want a quieter evening. Go hungry: portions are generous and the bread with tuna paste that arrives unbidden at the start is not optional.

This is the kind of place that doesn't need a Michelin star to justify itself. It just needs you to show up.